Shortly before leaving for this nine-day tour of Italy, Francois, an older French comrade, former band-mate and phenomenal harmonica player told me that Venice, “ah, its beautiful but expensive.” Rome, the coliseum is breathtaking, but there are so many people, it is hard to take it all in. But, Florence is marvelous and wonderful.
Oh, and the jazz clubs, he said, with my expectations leveling, are world-class. Jazz, in these days, is more popular in Europe than in the states.
Francois has toured the seemingly endless cobblestone streets of Bella Italia more than most, or at least more than anyone I knew. So, if there were any preconceived ideas about what the boot would kick my way, they were put there without consent from our conversations.
Admittedly, what he said about Venice and Rome, I experienced to be true.
Somewhere, on the chilly boat ride from Jesolo, a small, local, resort island outside of Venice, where Hotel Canova, our first, was located, to the dock of pastel-colored brick in Murano and the engineering mastery where I was about to step, I huddled as much as I could, unprepared in a thin, black cardigan, hoping to find Francois’ insights to be untrue.
Unfortunately, he was right.
Venice fulfills every expectation of beauty. Romance is tangible there; it complements the city like sea plants atop the brackish-water canals supplement the sinking paradise. Gondolas weaving between buildings and beneath bridges are, well, something everyone has to do in Venice. Pigeons, gosh, they are feisty and everywhere, but they have as much right to St. Mark’s Square as couples pausing to kiss.
Yet, there is more than beauty. As one tour guide put it, the city is starved of young educated workers, who can’t secure the limited tourism jobs available and who find the cost of living elevated. Although tourists delight in the city’s enchantments and history, locals worry about foundation problems and increasing prices.
Likewise, the same could be said for Rome. The sites are must-see. Vatican City is marvelously put together with halls after halls of monuments filled with rich-colored murals and chiseled marble sculptures. Not to mention, the rush of thousands filling the streets and chapels for Good Friday and Holy Week services can make the Godless reverent.
In the city center, down from Plaza Venezia and the Spanish Steps and to the side of the Coliseum, archeologists have been hard at work bringing the Roman Forum back up to life. When I saw an ancient ruin, I had to ask myself, “Is this real?” Against the backdrop of renaissance and modern buildings, it just seems divinely placed, and in that moment an unbearable weight of history hits you in the face.
But what also took me by surprise were the incredible amounts of people. All roads lead to Rome, and all of those roads are filled with tourists. Everyone is snapping a picture, yet few can really frame the moment. I’m not positive how many times I was asked to take a picture of someone in front of the Trevi Fountain, but I know that at least ten of them were for Italian tourists. As far as me being a tourist, I don’t know, it made me feel OK.
In Florence, expectations were happily met. I could pack up and move there tomorrow. The locals are charming, most tourists are done by 7 p.m., and the city is yours all night.
Each night there the mission became to find a jazz club. At first, that mission seemed impossible.
After dinner on the first night, a feast of tortellini and steak, we pulled together a few waiters, and in broken Italian, which probably sounded more like fluent Spanish, we asked if they knew the name of a club. They knew nothing, and neither did anyone that night; they only suggested places where DJ’s spun tracks, nothing live.
The next day, while turning down a street a couple blocks away from the Duomo, we passed by a music store, and that’s when the thought hit me that it might be best to ask someone in the store where a jazz club could be.
The guy behind the counter couldn’t give an answer but directed us upstairs to the Jazz section where we finally got what we needed.
Jazz Club Firenze on via Nouvo di Cacchini is what he wrote on a tiny sheet of notepaper. It was the legend we had been looking for to guide us in this mad scavenger hunt.
We had a place, now just to get there. Back at Hotel Meridiana, we decided to meet up around 9:30 p.m. and check out the club. I asked the hotel clerk to call them and make sure they were open. He said the line was dead, but nothing out of the ordinary for bars. He knew for a fact this place was open the week before. He made a call for a cab and shortly after half past we were gone.
I got really giddy during the cab ride. I felt my face smiling in ways I never knew possible. And to make the most of the five minute ride, I thought about how much simpler finding a club would have been had I just asked Francois for a name.
Anyway, the cab stopped, and the driver pointed to a red door, a beautiful red door, one filled with band posters and names etched into it; home, at last.
We enjoyed the night, and much more happened than I have space to describe. It was a blues jam session, so I got to sit in on the drums. Francois was right.